Trace to Tupelo

Today we started out on Natchez Trace.  The Trace is a parkway that runs from Natchez, Mississippi for 444 miles to Nashville, Tennessee.  Commercial vehicles are not allowed on it - just tourists.  So it is a wonderful way to get along.

Only drawback is the speed limit is set to 50mph, but with nothing to slow you down, like towns and stuff, the average is not all that bad.

Seems a few of the locals ignore the speed limit as we were overtaken at pace a few times.

Starts here.

Lots of information on the way.

 There are many towns called Clinton in USA, second only to Springfield as a popular name, so soon enough we had to come across one.

Always time for a photo op

or two

The Trace runs beside a large lake called Ross C Barnett Reservoir and it was a great place to stop for a breather.

There are a lot of bridges, all with no clearance advice.  We wondered how the tall RV's got on.
Lots of bikes of course.

Local ice cream maker does a good sandwich at Kosciusko

 In 2011, a destructive tornado raged through part of the trace, leaving a lot of stripped and broken trees.  Two years later the damage is very evident.

Half way marker - 222 miles

 About 40 miles after the half way marker we called it enough for the day at Tupelo, the town famous for being the birthplace of Elvis Presley.  He lived there until age 13 when the family moved to Memphis.
The small two-room house is preserved and a museum stands behind it.  We were too late to visit the museum but were able to wander the grounds and have a sit on the porch swing.  Everyone does.

Statue in the grounds of a 13 year old Elvis

After doing so well in Memphis, Elvis famously returned to Tupelo a hero after 11 years and performed before local screaming girls.  Here, Charleen helps re-enact the moment at the Statue in front of Tupelo town hall.

Returning from here we were riding along at a steady pace when a black motorcycle went by us at breakneck speed.  He was doing at least 70mph, with a girl in shorts on the back.
"Idiots." we mentioned.
I was preparing to take the next right and a good thing too as we heard approaching sirens of the pursuing police car.
Unfortunately the police saw our black bike turning off and apparently thought we were the speeding bike and so turned with us and stopped us.  Lots of thoughts went through our minds, including Jack's crack the other day that he had reported the bike stolen.
A few tense moments as the Officer stepped out and said, "What's the hurry?"
I said, "Where you after a black motorcycle?"
As soon as he saw us closer and heard my voice, the officer realised his mistake.  We didn't look at all like who he had been chasing.
"Y'all take care." he said as he jumped back in the cruiser and did a screaming U-ey.
Given the speed of the bike though, I'm pretty sure it was long gone.

Hearts back in chests we continued on to our planned eatery for a nice relaxing meal.

Got our own shot of the Supermoon

Just 298 miles for the day.

New Oil to Trace

Not a very long day today.  Just to get to the start of Natchez Trace, but we also had some work to do.

We started off with a little 50 mile spurt along the I10 amongst the traffic.  

In to another state, Louisiana

We were travelling OK and had instructions from the GPS to take Exit 44 - 44 miles from the border.  At an entrance after Exit 43 we saw a patrol car sitting in the side.  As we went by, it started up and pulled in behind us - and caught up quickly.  It went into the lane beside us, blue lights flashing.

I had thoughts of "Did Jack take that joke too far?"

But the ute in the next lane pulled in and they both crossed in front as we slowed down and we sailed past.

Looked like the ute had a canoe projecting way out the back - some kind of loading infraction.

We took exit 44 and left that Interstate for a much quieter highway.

The cemetery is on land between the highway and rail line.

This long straight road went for more than 50 miles

We went in to the town of Alexandria and got a little lost on a roundabout - more of a squareabout really.  We ended up in the outskirts full of well spaced shops. Our eyes were peeled for a Walmart for our upcoming job but in the end needed to ask the GPS to direct us to one.
Then it was time for an oil change for the little black Feejer.

The easy way to do this on the road is to purchase a 5 quart bottle of super premium oil, a drain pan, a funnel and a set of gloves and cleanup rags.  Super premium oil $22.47.  Already had a filter for $12 from a Yamaha dealer a couple of days ago.
Set up behind the lube bay and change the oil and filter.  Deliver the old oil to the nice men in the lube bay (they are required by law to take it), make a present to them of the pan and funnel ($3.94) and dump the now dirty cleanup rags ($3.47)
All done for just under $50 (including tax and a cold drink while waiting for the bike to cool).

Walmart Carpark servicing.

 Not too much further we came upon the mighty Mississippi River and a set of twin bridges leading us in to Natchez.  Another state across the river and we were now in Mississippi State.  Called in to the visitor centre and pick up a motel coupon book.  These things can save heaps on motel bills.

Twin Bridges over the Big River

 We found digs for a very good price and set up in front of the aircon to get out of the 100F heat.
After cooling down a bit, we went for a tour of the town.  A lovely place with some amazing architecture, showing both ends of the social spectra.

Came across a bride on her way to the ceremony

Looked across the bikes to the Bridges

Saw heaps of river traffic

Those bridges again

Crepe Myrtle is the street tree of choice

Houses of all styles

Just 247 miles today and tomorrow we begin the Trace.

On the Run in the Hot South

The day started out cool enough in Austin.  Motel was right next to the freeway we wanted so exiting the city was easy.
A little way out of town we found ourselves on a tollroad. No tollbooth.  We found out later that they just bill the registered owner.  Thanks Jack.

Toll sign

The toll pays for this I guess

That is 136kph.  Everything bigger in Texas.

So the tollroad and the highway run parallel.  Highway speed limit is 65 and for a bit of money, you can jump on the tollroad and go 20mph faster.  Typically American.
We were headed south and the tollroad would eventually go to San Antonio.  But as they were parallel we decided to have a go.  After all, Jack is paying.  Low on fuel, we left the highway and topped up then took the next two entrances on to the highway and then the tollroad.
Naturally, the two separated before the next possible exit and we were headed into the unknown on a very fast road that our GPS knew nothing about.
Ah well,  off at the next possible exit, several miles away and let it navigate us back on track on roads that it knew.

Nice Mural in Luling, proud of their watermelons

Luckily the GPS can make heads or tails from these

Through a couple of small towns, we were looking for a diner.  Nothing doing.  So on through the cornfields looking for another town.

A bi-plane crop duster

In a town called Yoakum, we were determined to find something and so did lappies of the "CBD" looking.  Charleen spotted a bakery/cafe in one direction whilst I almost had a head-on with a very bewildered gentleman in a ute.

We made our way back and parked up with some locals for a very nice breakfast of eggs n bacon on pancakes with maple syrup. (Don't knock it - its great - but only in USA)

The one-make locals.  All very shiny.

 We were headed for the Gulf Coast, just to say we've been there.  What we did find was the final stop for all that oil we've been seeing the last couple of days.  Tankers and refineries abound in this area just south-west of Houston.

 We turned left at the coast and followed it along for a while.  There are some great sand-spits along here which must be at least semi-permanent as there are lots of holiday houses built on them.
In Qld, we generally build houses high-set to allow the air to circulate under.
Here, it is for a whole different reason.  Tidal surges.

Room for water under?

Right on the coast

Colours reminded us of a paint-shop display

On the Gulf Coast at Galveston

We needed to do a ferry ride to get back inland and found there is a free service from Galveston.  There are half a dozen or so boats working, but even so, the signs indicate the wait queue can be up to a mile long.
Fortunately for us, we only had to wait half an hour or so, but we still sweltered in the hot parking lot, not able to disrobe our riding gear as we weren't sure when our line would be boarding.

Waiting it out in the hot hot sun.

One of the ferries like ours

Then it was another fifty miles or so to head back north-east, on our way to Natchez, to pick up the Trace, but more of that tomorrow.

Last bridge of the day was a doozey

Our motel is very nice tonight, right next to a large pool and a good reminder that we are very near Bayou Country.

No S**t Sherlock

A note from Jack was, "Don't worry about the tolls - I've reported the bike as stolen."

He's a kidder that Jack.

Jack?